"Oh my God, a morning without rain! Lots of wind, though, as always. And in the afternoon it rained cats and dogs. I almost have to laugh … The gulf of Biscaya weather is showing itself from its hard core side. The Costa de la Muerte is not called this for nothing, and slowly I’m beginning not to care at all. I cycled to A Coruna and then to Villalba, another romantic city with old Roman walls and a huge city tower.

Today’s 187-kilometer route wasn’t at all strenuous. The challenge on this tour lies elsewhere … Funny that you always think that Spain is hot and dry. What I wear on my walk in Villalba: a GORE rain cover for my helmet (looks like a beret), the waterproof leg warmers and long-sleeves, on top of that, my bare feet in Espadrilles – that’s what I’m wearing to dinner! The autonomous region of Galicia has its own language, and I know that there’s no such thing as a Spanish language. Depending on the region, they speak Castilian, Catalan, Galician, Basque. They only get mad with Hablo ESPANOL! There’s graffiti about it everywhere.  

In the restaurant I’m served grilled Pulpo (octopus), one of the best ever. The seafood in this region is excellent anyway, everything freshly caught and really good! Supposedly the weather is meant to improve tomorrow. I’m feeling positive. Tomorrow I’m riding over the mountains again. I’m ready for it. My excellent clothing dries quickly … "

Sigi Grabner – 10/06/09

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